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"Dungeons and Dragons" is a bolted rock climb that offers six pitches of sustained climbing between 5.11 and 5.12 on perfect (with the exception of the first pitch) golden, Corsican granite. After a 1.5 hour approach on the Tavignanu Valley trail, you arrive at the well-known formation of "U Russolinu" where classic multipitch climbs like "Ombre et Lumiere" and "Le Bonheur est dans le Pres" are found. Once you are here, the imposing and steep face where "Dungeons & Dragons" is comes fully into view. Look to the South side of the valley, across the river, and you see an imposing and steep wall that rises above a talus field. Much higher than U Russolinu in altitude, you easily gain 100 to 150 meters from the river when approaching the wall. From U Rossolinu, descend as best as possible to the river and cross the Tavignanu while ascending gradually (SW). Climb the talus field as best as possible while following the odd cairn. Interspe...

My friend Vlado is a very accomplished rock climber and has an eye for potential new routes. He has established many new routes on bolts and gear in Corsica. Some of the classics with his signature include,      La Voie de Bouc ( 7a / 5.11d, 400m ED+) on the Signora Occidentale and Syncope (7c / 5.12d, 500m ABO-) on the striking west face of the Cascioni. He asked me if I wanted to go check out a line that he said had the potential to become a classic not only for its climbing but also its scenery. The route, Ambata di Melu (6a+ / 5.10, 150m TD), is an incredibly enjoyable outing with interesting climbing and great movement on every pitch. What makes this route special is that it begins in the sea! After making a few easy rappels you can hang out on the boulders with your feet in the water while you get ready for the climb. Just make sure the sea is calm otherwise the first pitch will not be climbable. With Vlado's experience the bolts are precisely where they need t...

Location: Restonica Valley, Corsica, France. Route: Acqua di Rocca / TD+ / 6b oblig 7a max / 200m  Martial Lacroix & Pierre Sanchou Aspect: North  Punta Spenicazzia is located @ ( 9° 5' 17.13" E, 42° 15' 15.81" N) Right out of the front door, other climbers are already busy sending super hard routes. This gecko is crushing the ultra-polished flower pot like it's going out of style. A combination of super slick slab climbing with the occasional micro-crimp this route is a test-piece for local crushers like this guy. Suggested grade, 15A+.  The summer sun rises over the isle of Elba.  At the base of the climb, the sun slowly warms the valley :) Boom! Morgane crushes the 3rd pitch! Morgane makes a short appearance out of the chimney . . .  Basta! At the top of the crux pitch (7a) - totally awesome climbing Morgane about to show me how I should have climbed the crux, she took one fall, I fe...

Location: Restonica Valley, Corsica, France Route: Monte Leonardu, Amandulina / TD / 6a oblig 6c max / 200m  Aspect: North GPS:  42.257813, 9.071665 Amandulina is a  super fun route to do. In my opinion the first pitches with the given grade of 6b+ and 6c, really only consists of one challenging move that is very doable - just don't forget to place your feet well and high and just go for it! For many, the first pitch(6b+) is the hardest one . . . indeed physical, fun bouldery moves :) The first time I climbed this route the 6c grade scared us so we did the first two pitches of Bella Ciao (6a+max)  as many do, gaining the ramp and then continuing the upper pitches of Amandulina. Don't be afraid of these two pitches at the beginning. They are really fun and will psyche you up to crush the rest of this fantastic climb :)  Ready, at your marks, go!  Woj climbs the 4th or 5th? pitch after the giant ledge/ramp  Woj - show...

Location: Gozzi (Afa, Corsica (France)) Route: Les Hurluberlus / AD+ / 4 Obligatoire / 150m Jean-Tou CASANOVA Aspect: South GPS:  41°59′05″N   8°47′47″E Les Hurluberlus is the easiest multipitch route on the Gozzi formation. This route was intended to be a "for pleasure" climb with its moderate grade and bottom to top bolting. Local legend Jean-Tou CASANOVA bolted this route so everyone, young and old, can have the joy of climbing a multipitch route at Gozzi. So it was with two friends, Luca and Fred (their first multipitch route ever!), that we decided to drive from Corte to Ajaccio and attempt this climb . . . c'est parti! Luca and Fred checking out what the day will offer! Count on 45min to 1hr for the approach  Fred checking out the view. This was a great experience to share with Fred who has roots in Ajaccio. I felt like he really got a lot out of this climb, high above the bay of Ajaccio, where he has spent so much of his life. Luca climbing...