Acqua di Rocca CORSICA

Location: Restonica Valley, Corsica, France.
Route: Acqua di Rocca / TD+ / 6b oblig 7a max / 200m Martial Lacroix & Pierre Sanchou
Aspect: North
 Punta Spenicazzia is located @ (9° 5' 17.13" E, 42° 15' 15.81" N)






Right out of the front door, other climbers are already busy sending super hard routes. This gecko is crushing the ultra-polished flower pot like it's going out of style. A combination of super slick slab climbing with the occasional micro-crimp this route is a test-piece for local crushers like this guy. Suggested grade, 15A+. 

The summer sun rises over the isle of Elba. 

At the base of the climb, the sun slowly warms the valley :)

Boom! Morgane crushes the 3rd pitch!

Morgane makes a short appearance out of the chimney . . . 

Basta!

At the top of the crux pitch (7a) - totally awesome climbing

Morgane about to show me how I should have climbed the crux, she took one fall, I fell like ummm, oh I can't remember :)))

Unreal rock on this climb. A mix of face climbing on crimps on the lower section, a chimney on the third pitch that is a mix of polished and featured granite...then some pinch action on what looks like frozen lava with wild colors that feeds into a small roof of tafoni as pictured here. Outrageous!

Back down at the base after rapelling Candella di L'oro, still surrounded by the beautiful  Corsican Larici Pine trees that are prevalent on northern aspects at higher altitudes.

Click here to see a beta photo of the Punta Spenicazzia that shows the route's progression in red dots, then the rappel via Candella di L'oro on looker's right with arrows Check it out!

Gear: The route is entirely bolted, 12 - 15 quickdraws will suffice. Eventually some slings for the belays. The decent is via Candella di L'oro. It is easy to mess up and the signs of confused parties are evident with many intermediate belays on the way down. We were one of these parties and ended up missing one of the belays. Luckily there was a decent belay set up by a previous party. It was a little iffy on the equalization as the angle  where the two points were anchored was more than what is usually regarded as safe. With that said, one of the threads was totally bomber and I would have been comfortable rappelling off of it alone had we no other choice. 

Looking back: This was my first time climbing a multipitch route with Morgane and we had a really great time from start to finish. With the 7a grade, we were curious to see if it was even possible for us to do the climb. I wanted to try this line before leaving Corsica, even if it was too hard. Morgane hadn't tried it yet, exactly for the same reason (7a)!  So, we tried it and it when I did the crux pitch, I really had to battle. It is a combination of stemming on polished granite, pinches and even a three finger bird beak :) At least, this was the way I thugged my way through it . . . there must be a more graceful approach (which Morgane later showed me while following). Anyways, while trying this crux (maybe three or four times before getting through it) I really had tunnel vision and felt like it was my responsibility to make it through as it was my idea to climb this route. I took well over an hour to finally get through the crux and slowly climb the rest of the pitch without falling with my ultra-pumped arms. I didn't realize the time I took and should have asked Morgane to have a go, but I was stuck in my own personal battle with the rock. She followed it no problem, only taking one fall. I'm sure she would have led it much faster than I did. Morgane went back a couple of weeks later with Marco and Vanina, took one fall and then led the pitch clean! Bravo :) The crux pitch has bolts placed closely together so if you have to, aiding is done so easily. A must-do route in the Restonica Valley. Obligatory beer at Cyrnea Bar in Corte afterwards :)


Location: Corte, France

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