Dungeons and Dragons, Tavignanu Valley, CORSICA

"Dungeons and Dragons" is a bolted rock climb that offers six pitches of sustained climbing between 5.11 and 5.12 on perfect (with the exception of the first pitch) golden, Corsican granite. After a 1.5 hour approach on the Tavignanu Valley trail, you arrive at the well-known formation of "U Russolinu" where classic multipitch climbs like "Ombre et Lumiere" and "Le Bonheur est dans le Pres" are found. Once you are here, the imposing and steep face where "Dungeons & Dragons" is comes fully into view. Look to the South side of the valley, across the river, and you see an imposing and steep wall that rises above a talus field. Much higher than U Russolinu in altitude, you easily gain 100 to 150 meters from the river when approaching the wall. From U Rossolinu, descend as best as possible to the river and cross the Tavignanu while ascending gradually (SW). Climb the talus field as best as possible while following the odd cairn. Interspersed are passages over boulders, vague trails through trees and bush, and steeper grades . . . in brief, a very Corsican approach (30 to 45 min from U Russolinu)! Keep your eye on the rock wall (1st Picture below) and you should have no serious problems. We did our best to break trail on what we believed was a direct passage (ha! as if this exists in the Corsican Maquis!?)  This rock climb is, simply put, outstanding. Another classic from Pierre Pietri and ?? This route is not referenced in any guidebook to my knowledge and is deserving of traffic. It lends itself well to the warmer climbing season as well with its North facing aspect. This is the only route on this wall. We left a cairn at the base of the climb. The bolts get further apart when the climbing eases (5.10). We elected to bring a small rack of cams to supplement and we were happy having done so. Enjoy.

 The grades below are what my partner (Ulrich) and I suggest. We did not have a precise topo for the climb. Feel free to email me at mr.tjwatts@gmail.com if you have questions or would like to weigh in on the grades.

 L1: 6a+ (piton) Mediocre Rock in sections. (I broke a foot hold and nearly whipped but thankfully held on.)
L2: 7a
L3: 7a
L4:6b+/c
L5: 7b Sustained. Either go left at the rest, up the dihedral (1 piton) that is easy but needs to be protected with gear. The original finish leaves the rest and climbs left onto the steep and exposed face, and beautiful crack takes you to the belay. 
L6: 6b Tafoni

BE AWARE!!! : The last anchor is poorly placed for the rappel. We equalized the bolted anchor, then extended it with a single strand of rope (a figure of 8 on a bite on both ends) as to avoid our ropes getting stuck from too much friction. THEREFORE: Please do yourself a favor and bring something you feel comfortable extending the rappel station with and thus leaving behind, as to not rely on the system we installed on our climb. 

12/14 quickdraws , 2 double length slings. We brought this to supplement the rack: Yellow $ Red Aliens (one each) as well as a purple and red camolot (one each). 
Ropes : 2x 50m

Here are some photos from our climb: 



The golden granite is where we are going!






Pure Gold

It goes on gear! My partner Ulrich on one of our "Free Sport Corsican Sport Climbing" projects (not D&D)

you get the picture

A true Rock Window that gives you a perfect view of the city of  CORTE
The crystal clear water of the Tavignanu

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