Ambata di Melu - Climbing above the sea in Corsica



My friend Vlado is a very accomplished rock climber and has an eye for potential new routes. He has established many new routes on bolts and gear in Corsica. Some of the classics with his signature include,      La Voie de Bouc ( 7a / 5.11d, 400m ED+) on the Signora Occidentale and Syncope (7c / 5.12d, 500m ABO-) on the striking west face of the Cascioni. He asked me if I wanted to go check out a line that he said had the potential to become a classic not only for its climbing but also its scenery. The route, Ambata di Melu (6a+ / 5.10, 150m TD), is an incredibly enjoyable outing with interesting climbing and great movement on every pitch. What makes this route special is that it begins in the sea! After making a few easy rappels you can hang out on the boulders with your feet in the water while you get ready for the climb. Just make sure the sea is calm otherwise the first pitch will not be climbable. With Vlado's experience the bolts are precisely where they need to be without taking away from the excitement of the climb. The crux moves, high above the waves, are an exciting series of traverse moves that will leave you smiling :) Ambata di Melu can be translated from Corsican as "The breeze of Melu" or "Melu's Breeze" in dedication to Vlado's daughter, Melu. At only 150m this route is a great morning outing before logging some serious beach time in Porto, enjoy!

The topo for the route can be found here : http://escalade.corse.topo.free.fr/pdf/Portu_Ambata_di_melu.pdf

Here are some photos to get you excited: 





Location: D81, 20147 Partinello, France

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