NIRVANA , Punta Lunarda BAVELLA CORSICA

"NIRVANA" Punta Lunarda, Bavella CORSICA: 
First Ascent: J. Toussaint-Casanova, Michel Charles, Bernard Pacoui, Mai 1992
It was a long time dream to climb this ultimate classic of Corsica. Pitch after pitch of demanding climbing coupled with the long approach & descent make this a memorable outing. Arnaud Petit and his youth development group recently came to the island and repeated the route. During their ascent they removed some rusty bolts and replaced a rappel anchor. The updated information on the route can be found here (in French): https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/france/corse/punta-lunarda-nirvana/
Nirvana has a lot of blue collar climbing. The grades suggested by the topo are generally accepted by most french climbers I have spoken to but those with experience in crack climbing down grade the climb. Particularly the crux pitch as well as the one that follows it. 



A long approach brings you to this beautiful mountain, the Punta Lunarda (Moon Peak)
JAMMIN'

SQUEEZIN'
J
The 7a (or perhaps 6b? ;) ) crux. All bolts have been removed but the gear placements are great. Hands / Fists

The magnificent 6c+ (or 6a? :) ) dihedral. Jug haul on tafoni, then climb the sustained chimney until the first tree. From here it's smooth sailing with perfect jams in two parallel, vertical cracks. 40 meters! 2 bolts

And we're rappin!

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