Le Fil de l'Epée, Capu d'Ortu CORSICA

Le Fil de l'Epée, Capu d'Ortu (6a+, 450m)
FA: H. Agresti, I. Agresti, C. Gleizes, P. Gleizes, 8 avril 1983

Topo: Grandes Voies de Corse par Thierry Souchard et Bertrand Maurin


Rack: 6 shoulder length slings, nuts, 0.3 - 3. You could eventually bring doubles of mid sized cams.
Notes: A couple of pitons here and there (3-4 on the entire route), some more inspiring than others.


Capu d'Ortu (1294m) on the left, E Tre Signore to the right



Sunrise at the Foce d'Ortu

L'Attaque

Corsican Stone



This is why you came . . . 





A belay with a view...



Sur le fil!


West Coast
Capu D'ortu viewed from the beautiful village of OTA. 




Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

U VARDIA , Tafunatu di i PALIRI Bavella, Corsica

Image
"U VARDIA" Punta Tafunata d'i Paliri BAVELLA CORSICA (6A, 600M) First pitch was a rope stretcher with our 50m ropes. Leo had to untie and solo up to the first piece of gear (visible)Leo walked up the couloir while belaying me so I could reach a comfortable place to build an anchor.  In retrospect Leo should have simul-climbed, thus avoiding having to solo. EASY 5.10 BUT LITTLE GEAR. CLIP AN IN SITU NUT THEN EMBARK ON A TRICKY TO PROTECT TRAVERSE. I LINKED THIS PITCH AND THE FOLLOWING  BUT REGRETTED DOING SO, STOP AT THE BELAY AND TAKE GREAT PHOTOS OF YOUR PARTNER FOLLOWING. SEE GRANDE VOIE DE CORSE BY Thierry Suchard and Bertrand Maurin Fun tafoni (easy) for a couple rope lengths . . .  more easy ground its gettin late... A celebratory cigarette for Leo . . .  600m of climbing but now we have a 3hr hike back to the car. Good times!
Read more

Ambata di Melu - Climbing above the sea in Corsica

Image
My friend Vlado is a very accomplished rock climber and has an eye for potential new routes. He has established many new routes on bolts and gear in Corsica. Some of the classics with his signature include,      La Voie de Bouc ( 7a / 5.11d, 400m ED+) on the Signora Occidentale and Syncope (7c / 5.12d, 500m ABO-) on the striking west face of the Cascioni. He asked me if I wanted to go check out a line that he said had the potential to become a classic not only for its climbing but also its scenery. The route, Ambata di Melu (6a+ / 5.10, 150m TD), is an incredibly enjoyable outing with interesting climbing and great movement on every pitch. What makes this route special is that it begins in the sea! After making a few easy rappels you can hang out on the boulders with your feet in the water while you get ready for the climb. Just make sure the sea is calm otherwise the first pitch will not be climbable. With Vlado's experience the bolts are precisely where they need t...
Read more

NIRVANA , Punta Lunarda BAVELLA CORSICA

Image
"NIRVANA" Punta Lunarda, Bavella CORSICA:  First Ascent: J. Toussaint-Casanova, Michel Charles, Bernard Pacoui, Mai 1992 It was a long time dream to climb this ultimate classic of Corsica. Pitch after pitch of demanding climbing coupled with the long approach & descent make this a memorable outing. Arnaud Petit and his youth development group recently came to the island and repeated the route. During their ascent they removed some rusty bolts and replaced a rappel anchor. The updated information on the route can be found here (in French):  https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/france/corse/punta-lunarda-nirvana / Nirvana has a lot of blue collar climbing. The grades suggested by the topo are generally accepted by most french climbers I have spoken to but those with experience in crack climbing down grade the climb. Particularly the crux pitch as well as the one that follows it.  A long approach brings you to this beautiful mountain, the P...
Read more