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"Dungeons and Dragons" is a bolted rock climb that offers six pitches of sustained climbing between 5.11 and 5.12 on perfect (with the exception of the first pitch) golden, Corsican granite. After a 1.5 hour approach on the Tavignanu Valley trail, you arrive at the well-known formation of "U Russolinu" where classic multipitch climbs like "Ombre et Lumiere" and "Le Bonheur est dans le Pres" are found. Once you are here, the imposing and steep face where "Dungeons & Dragons" is comes fully into view. Look to the South side of the valley, across the river, and you see an imposing and steep wall that rises above a talus field. Much higher than U Russolinu in altitude, you easily gain 100 to 150 meters from the river when approaching the wall. From U Rossolinu, descend as best as possible to the river and cross the Tavignanu while ascending gradually (SW). Climb the talus field as best as possible while following the odd cairn. Interspe...

"LETI" Monte Gozzi  240m 6b+ First Ascent: Thierry Souchard / Manu Rioualec Leti is an outstanding line with challenging climbing. See the topo "Grande Voies de Corse" by Thierry Souchard and Bertrand Maurin. Monte Gozzi Belays are not always pretty but I know Leo's are always safe Rock Faces . . .  A parting shot . .  

"U VARDIA" Punta Tafunata d'i Paliri BAVELLA CORSICA (6A, 600M) First pitch was a rope stretcher with our 50m ropes. Leo had to untie and solo up to the first piece of gear (visible)Leo walked up the couloir while belaying me so I could reach a comfortable place to build an anchor.  In retrospect Leo should have simul-climbed, thus avoiding having to solo. EASY 5.10 BUT LITTLE GEAR. CLIP AN IN SITU NUT THEN EMBARK ON A TRICKY TO PROTECT TRAVERSE. I LINKED THIS PITCH AND THE FOLLOWING  BUT REGRETTED DOING SO, STOP AT THE BELAY AND TAKE GREAT PHOTOS OF YOUR PARTNER FOLLOWING. SEE GRANDE VOIE DE CORSE BY Thierry Suchard and Bertrand Maurin Fun tafoni (easy) for a couple rope lengths . . .  more easy ground its gettin late... A celebratory cigarette for Leo . . .  600m of climbing but now we have a 3hr hike back to the car. Good times!

"NIRVANA" Punta Lunarda, Bavella CORSICA:  First Ascent: J. Toussaint-Casanova, Michel Charles, Bernard Pacoui, Mai 1992 It was a long time dream to climb this ultimate classic of Corsica. Pitch after pitch of demanding climbing coupled with the long approach & descent make this a memorable outing. Arnaud Petit and his youth development group recently came to the island and repeated the route. During their ascent they removed some rusty bolts and replaced a rappel anchor. The updated information on the route can be found here (in French):  https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/france/corse/punta-lunarda-nirvana / Nirvana has a lot of blue collar climbing. The grades suggested by the topo are generally accepted by most french climbers I have spoken to but those with experience in crack climbing down grade the climb. Particularly the crux pitch as well as the one that follows it.  A long approach brings you to this beautiful mountain, the P...

Long's Peak (4346m) is one of Colorado's iconic "14ers" with its summit standing at a proud 14, 259 ft above sea level. Growing up in its shadow, my eyes often drifted from the soccer field to its daunting east face, known as "the diamond". When I was concentrated on running up and down a flat field while chasing a soccer ball, I always wanted to know what it was like up there. What it would be like to be up there, among the clouds, storms, ice, snow, granite. Previously I had only run up and down the standard class III  Keyhole route which is documented in a previous post . While Long's Peak is well known for this moderate though serious trekking route, its true notoriety comes from its dead vertical east face. The Diamond is a storied alpine wall in American climbing, perhaps the most notorious of any in the lower 48 states. The price of admission is 5.10 via the Casual Route. From here there are a plethora of routes with differing levels of commitmen...

Abbastanza, Teghie Lisce (7a+, 250m) FA:   Biancarelli et Bordeaux Rack: 0.3 -5 (double #3), Nuts, 5 slings Topo:   Grandes Voies de Corse par Thierry Souchard et Bertrand Maurin Notes:Some photos from this memorable route... To squeeze, you need to believe! Thanks to Didier for dispatching the crux pitches. The 6c+ pitch makes the 7a+ seem like a walk in the park. All the bolts on this route (aside from anchors) are on the two off-width pitches (p6 & 7).  Pitch 3, 6b+ From right to left:  Punta a Biciartula (with great slab routes like Alexandria) then just right of the couloir is Punta Rossa (home to the classic "Le Fils de la Puta Rossa" which I had the opportunity of repeating with my friend Jeff (who led every pitch) and is one of my goals this coming Spring (2017) Jeff is one of my mentors. You can find out more about him here:  http://www.jf-andreucci.com/   Didier stylin  No big deal for Did...

Nous Sommes Charlie, Punta u Finellu (6b, 300m) FA: J.F. Andreucci, C. Specia and M. Rioualec  Some photos from "Nous Sommes Charlie". The detailed topo (.pdf) is available by clicking on the link below the photo here . Thanks Didier for being motivated to Climb! 

Le Fil de l'Epée, Capu d'Ortu (6a+, 450m) FA :  H. Agresti, I. Agresti, C. Gleizes, P. Gleizes, 8 avril 1983 Topo: Grandes Voies de Corse par Thierry Souchard et Bertrand Maurin Rack: 6 shoulder length slings, nuts, 0.3 - 3. You could eventually bring doubles of mid sized cams. Notes: A couple of pitons here and there (3-4 on the entire route), some more inspiring than others. Capu d'Ortu (1294m) on the left, E Tre Signore to the right Sunrise at the Foce d'Ortu L'Attaque Corsican Stone This is why you came . . .  A belay with a view... Sur le fil! West Coast Capu D'ortu viewed from the beautiful village of OTA. 

Voie du Caf, Monte Gozzi. (250m, 5c) Afa, Corsica. Belle voie en TA FA: G. CAU et F. BARTOLI Rack: 6 shoulder length runners, nuts, 0.4 -  #3 cams.  Notes: Awesome route.  Topo:  Grandes Voies de Corse par Thierry Souchard et Bertrand Maurin Monte Gozzi . . . Grand Classe Les derniers longeurs, raide et belle Marie fait sommet au Gozzi. Thanks for being motivated to climb today!