INTRODUCTION

The objective of this blog is to share my experiences with others and at the same time help myself learn and grow with a retrospective point of view. I will write down what I saw, what I thought. I can't speak for others so you should take everything you may read and see here with a grain of salt. :)


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U VARDIA , Tafunatu di i PALIRI Bavella, Corsica

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"U VARDIA" Punta Tafunata d'i Paliri BAVELLA CORSICA (6A, 600M) First pitch was a rope stretcher with our 50m ropes. Leo had to untie and solo up to the first piece of gear (visible)Leo walked up the couloir while belaying me so I could reach a comfortable place to build an anchor.  In retrospect Leo should have simul-climbed, thus avoiding having to solo. EASY 5.10 BUT LITTLE GEAR. CLIP AN IN SITU NUT THEN EMBARK ON A TRICKY TO PROTECT TRAVERSE. I LINKED THIS PITCH AND THE FOLLOWING  BUT REGRETTED DOING SO, STOP AT THE BELAY AND TAKE GREAT PHOTOS OF YOUR PARTNER FOLLOWING. SEE GRANDE VOIE DE CORSE BY Thierry Suchard and Bertrand Maurin Fun tafoni (easy) for a couple rope lengths . . .  more easy ground its gettin late... A celebratory cigarette for Leo . . .  600m of climbing but now we have a 3hr hike back to the car. Good times!
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Ambata di Melu - Climbing above the sea in Corsica

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My friend Vlado is a very accomplished rock climber and has an eye for potential new routes. He has established many new routes on bolts and gear in Corsica. Some of the classics with his signature include,      La Voie de Bouc ( 7a / 5.11d, 400m ED+) on the Signora Occidentale and Syncope (7c / 5.12d, 500m ABO-) on the striking west face of the Cascioni. He asked me if I wanted to go check out a line that he said had the potential to become a classic not only for its climbing but also its scenery. The route, Ambata di Melu (6a+ / 5.10, 150m TD), is an incredibly enjoyable outing with interesting climbing and great movement on every pitch. What makes this route special is that it begins in the sea! After making a few easy rappels you can hang out on the boulders with your feet in the water while you get ready for the climb. Just make sure the sea is calm otherwise the first pitch will not be climbable. With Vlado's experience the bolts are precisely where they need t...
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NIRVANA , Punta Lunarda BAVELLA CORSICA

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"NIRVANA" Punta Lunarda, Bavella CORSICA:  First Ascent: J. Toussaint-Casanova, Michel Charles, Bernard Pacoui, Mai 1992 It was a long time dream to climb this ultimate classic of Corsica. Pitch after pitch of demanding climbing coupled with the long approach & descent make this a memorable outing. Arnaud Petit and his youth development group recently came to the island and repeated the route. During their ascent they removed some rusty bolts and replaced a rappel anchor. The updated information on the route can be found here (in French):  https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/france/corse/punta-lunarda-nirvana / Nirvana has a lot of blue collar climbing. The grades suggested by the topo are generally accepted by most french climbers I have spoken to but those with experience in crack climbing down grade the climb. Particularly the crux pitch as well as the one that follows it.  A long approach brings you to this beautiful mountain, the P...
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