_

"Dungeons and Dragons" is a bolted rock climb that offers six pitches of sustained climbing between 5.11 and 5.12 on perfect (with the exception of the first pitch) golden, Corsican granite. After a 1.5 hour approach on the Tavignanu Valley trail, you arrive at the well-known formation of "U Russolinu" where classic multipitch climbs like "Ombre et Lumiere" and "Le Bonheur est dans le Pres" are found. Once you are here, the imposing and steep face where "Dungeons & Dragons" is comes fully into view. Look to the South side of the valley, across the river, and you see an imposing and steep wall that rises above a talus field. Much higher than U Russolinu in altitude, you easily gain 100 to 150 meters from the river when approaching the wall. From U Rossolinu, descend as best as possible to the river and cross the Tavignanu while ascending gradually (SW). Climb the talus field as best as possible while following the odd cairn. Interspe...

"LETI" Monte Gozzi  240m 6b+ First Ascent: Thierry Souchard / Manu Rioualec Leti is an outstanding line with challenging climbing. See the topo "Grande Voies de Corse" by Thierry Souchard and Bertrand Maurin. Monte Gozzi Belays are not always pretty but I know Leo's are always safe Rock Faces . . .  A parting shot . .  

"U VARDIA" Punta Tafunata d'i Paliri BAVELLA CORSICA (6A, 600M) First pitch was a rope stretcher with our 50m ropes. Leo had to untie and solo up to the first piece of gear (visible)Leo walked up the couloir while belaying me so I could reach a comfortable place to build an anchor.  In retrospect Leo should have simul-climbed, thus avoiding having to solo. EASY 5.10 BUT LITTLE GEAR. CLIP AN IN SITU NUT THEN EMBARK ON A TRICKY TO PROTECT TRAVERSE. I LINKED THIS PITCH AND THE FOLLOWING  BUT REGRETTED DOING SO, STOP AT THE BELAY AND TAKE GREAT PHOTOS OF YOUR PARTNER FOLLOWING. SEE GRANDE VOIE DE CORSE BY Thierry Suchard and Bertrand Maurin Fun tafoni (easy) for a couple rope lengths . . .  more easy ground its gettin late... A celebratory cigarette for Leo . . .  600m of climbing but now we have a 3hr hike back to the car. Good times!

"NIRVANA" Punta Lunarda, Bavella CORSICA:  First Ascent: J. Toussaint-Casanova, Michel Charles, Bernard Pacoui, Mai 1992 It was a long time dream to climb this ultimate classic of Corsica. Pitch after pitch of demanding climbing coupled with the long approach & descent make this a memorable outing. Arnaud Petit and his youth development group recently came to the island and repeated the route. During their ascent they removed some rusty bolts and replaced a rappel anchor. The updated information on the route can be found here (in French):  https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/france/corse/punta-lunarda-nirvana / Nirvana has a lot of blue collar climbing. The grades suggested by the topo are generally accepted by most french climbers I have spoken to but those with experience in crack climbing down grade the climb. Particularly the crux pitch as well as the one that follows it.  A long approach brings you to this beautiful mountain, the P...