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Showing posts from June, 2016

Abbastanza, Teghie Lisce CORSICA

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Abbastanza, Teghie Lisce (7a+, 250m) FA:   Biancarelli et Bordeaux Rack: 0.3 -5 (double #3), Nuts, 5 slings Topo:   Grandes Voies de Corse par Thierry Souchard et Bertrand Maurin Notes:Some photos from this memorable route... To squeeze, you need to believe! Thanks to Didier for dispatching the crux pitches. The 6c+ pitch makes the 7a+ seem like a walk in the park. All the bolts on this route (aside from anchors) are on the two off-width pitches (p6 & 7).  Pitch 3, 6b+ From right to left:  Punta a Biciartula (with great slab routes like Alexandria) then just right of the couloir is Punta Rossa (home to the classic "Le Fils de la Puta Rossa" which I had the opportunity of repeating with my friend Jeff (who led every pitch) and is one of my goals this coming Spring (2017) Jeff is one of my mentors. You can find out more about him here:  http://www.jf-andreucci.com/   Didier stylin  No big deal for Did...

Nous Sommes Charlie, Punta u Finellu CORSICA

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Nous Sommes Charlie, Punta u Finellu (6b, 300m) FA: J.F. Andreucci, C. Specia and M. Rioualec  Some photos from "Nous Sommes Charlie". The detailed topo (.pdf) is available by clicking on the link below the photo here . Thanks Didier for being motivated to Climb! 

Le Fil de l'Epée, Capu d'Ortu CORSICA

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Le Fil de l'Epée, Capu d'Ortu (6a+, 450m) FA :  H. Agresti, I. Agresti, C. Gleizes, P. Gleizes, 8 avril 1983 Topo: Grandes Voies de Corse par Thierry Souchard et Bertrand Maurin Rack: 6 shoulder length slings, nuts, 0.3 - 3. You could eventually bring doubles of mid sized cams. Notes: A couple of pitons here and there (3-4 on the entire route), some more inspiring than others. Capu d'Ortu (1294m) on the left, E Tre Signore to the right Sunrise at the Foce d'Ortu L'Attaque Corsican Stone This is why you came . . .  A belay with a view... Sur le fil! West Coast Capu D'ortu viewed from the beautiful village of OTA. 

Voie du Caf, Monte Gozzi CORSICA

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Voie du Caf, Monte Gozzi. (250m, 5c) Afa, Corsica. Belle voie en TA FA: G. CAU et F. BARTOLI Rack: 6 shoulder length runners, nuts, 0.4 -  #3 cams.  Notes: Awesome route.  Topo:  Grandes Voies de Corse par Thierry Souchard et Bertrand Maurin Monte Gozzi . . . Grand Classe Les derniers longeurs, raide et belle Marie fait sommet au Gozzi. Thanks for being motivated to climb today!