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Yosemite Valley - USA -  El Capitan - Bigger than you think  Indian Face Camp Ground Stoner's Highway - 5.10 R - Middle Cathedral This is a terrible butt shot but it was one of the most memorable days in the valley. Sharr started off by taking a 10-15 foot ground fall on the first pitch. His partner Alex courageously maneuvered to catch Sharr and break his fall. They both went crashing down onto the ground.  Sharr and Alex got up, dusted themselves off and climbed on. I also watched Alex take a fifteen footer while making the last moves before the belay half way up the route.It was an exciting day on a route with a lot of character.  Thankful for this life . . . Looking west from the base of the Sentinel  Ian Siadak on New Dimensions Havard following the slab face on Steck-Salathe. This was a great day on a classic climb.  Seb getting ready to send Freerider . . . Seb is another inspiring person to climb with. ...

Another trip to the Diamond! This time for two climbing days. D7 and Black Dagger: Every since reading issue 19 of Alpinist and seeing Timmy O'Neill awkwardly stemming his way up the chimney pitch of Black Dagger, I knew one day I wanted to climb this route. The chimney that forms the "black dagger" is practically visible from I-25. D7 was always very motivating because it is one of the most striking lines on the diamond, following a single crack from bottom to top. Here are some shots from the two day voyage:

Back in the valley for a visit to Spearhead, this time to try and climb a slightly more difficult route than last time. All too Obvious, 5.11 R is a beautiful line that goes more or less up the middle of the wall. The route weaves in and out of crack systems with technical face climbing, sometimes a little bit run-out but never dangerous. One could compare the style of the climbing to Middle Cathedral in Yosemite Valley, the route Stoner's Highway comes to mind. My partner Mark Ferguson and I planned on staying up at the bivouac site for two nights. A quick stop at the backcountry office at the park entrance to collect the permit and we are off on the 2+ hour trek it takes to reach the wall. Gorgeous weather welcomed us into the valley as we began our afternoon approach but as is common in the alpine the afternoon gave way to threatening clouds. Hiking into an area you must go into the experience with a "no expectations" attitude. Rain, lightning, altitude sickness are ...

"Dungeons and Dragons" is a bolted rock climb that offers six pitches of sustained climbing between 5.11 and 5.12 on perfect (with the exception of the first pitch) golden, Corsican granite. After a 1.5 hour approach on the Tavignanu Valley trail, you arrive at the well-known formation of "U Russolinu" where classic multipitch climbs like "Ombre et Lumiere" and "Le Bonheur est dans le Pres" are found. Once you are here, the imposing and steep face where "Dungeons & Dragons" is comes fully into view. Look to the South side of the valley, across the river, and you see an imposing and steep wall that rises above a talus field. Much higher than U Russolinu in altitude, you easily gain 100 to 150 meters from the river when approaching the wall. From U Rossolinu, descend as best as possible to the river and cross the Tavignanu while ascending gradually (SW). Climb the talus field as best as possible while following the odd cairn. Interspe...

"LETI" Monte Gozzi  240m 6b+ First Ascent: Thierry Souchard / Manu Rioualec Leti is an outstanding line with challenging climbing. See the topo "Grande Voies de Corse" by Thierry Souchard and Bertrand Maurin. Monte Gozzi Belays are not always pretty but I know Leo's are always safe Rock Faces . . .  A parting shot . .