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Showing posts from 2015

Paglia Orba, CORSICA

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Finch Route 5.8  , Paglia Orba, Corsica First Ascent:  April 15th, 1909  George & Maxwell Finch, Alf Bryn. I repeated this climb with Tyler Cross Click below to find out more about George Finch: http://old.aacz.ch/galerie/articles/george-finch/finch.en.php East Face of Paglia Orba Thinking about the first ascent in full winter conditions in 1909! The Finch Ledge... Last pitch on the Southeast Arete Tyler taking in the view Rack: Camalots from 0,2 to #2, stoppers. 3-4 shoulder length slings. Rope: 2x60m Must do route. Mostly easy climbing with one 5.7-5.8 move (1 piton). Approach from Calassima is long and complicated with no trail but with a good mountain sense it isn't too bad. Take the GR20 back down when you arrive at the pass after descending the south face. This is the only way that makes sense if you plan on climbing the Paglia Orba in one day. Otherwise bivouac and approach from  Refuge Ciottulu à i Mori.  ...

Osiris, Lumpy Ridge USA

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OSIRIS 5.7 , Lumpy Ridge, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado USA Pages and pages...  crack climbing! Rack: Camalots to #3 and stoppers if comfortable with the grade (5.7*-5.8). We came across a party who had doubles from #1 to #4, this could be helpful.  Rope: 1x60        Physical climbing. Considered "old school".  *Demanding climbing for the grade. 

L'homme au Serpent (Snake Man), Bavella, CORSICA

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L'homme au Serpent (Snake Man) 6b, Cima Ghisoni . Bavella, Corsica with Jeff Andreucci Click here for the detailed topo (in French) : http://media.wix.com/ugd/3b2a5f_36d9837e59f34ec4982221c5a91f3538.pdf The not so easy ramp on pitch 3 Snake Rack: 0.3 to #5. Stoppers. Maybe double 2-3 mid size cams. Rope: 2x50 An experience that changed the way I look at the mountains. First time doing a first ascent. Thanks to Jeff for showing me how it's done. From being too scared to lead, hauling, throwing chunks of granite into the abyss to catching snakes. 

South Face, Petit Grepon USA

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Petit Grepon, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado, USA South Face, 5.8 with Morgan Choquet Approach nearly finished Near the base of the route Start of the 5.8 pitch Rack: camalots to #3 and stoppers.  Ropes: 2x60m Must do climb. Spectacular setting with fun, varied climbing. Great summit. Park at Glacier Gorge Junction Trail Head and hike to Sky Pond.