Les Hurluberlus CORSICA

Location: Gozzi (Afa, Corsica (France))
Route: Les Hurluberlus / AD+ / 4 Obligatoire / 150m Jean-Tou CASANOVA
Aspect: South
GPS: 41°59′05″N 8°47′47″E

 Les Hurluberlus is the easiest multipitch route on the Gozzi formation. This route was intended to be a "for pleasure" climb with its moderate grade and bottom to top bolting. Local legend Jean-Tou CASANOVA bolted this route so everyone, young and old, can have the joy of climbing a multipitch route at Gozzi.
So it was with two friends, Luca and Fred (their first multipitch route ever!), that we decided to drive from Corte to Ajaccio and attempt this climb . . . c'est parti!


Luca and Fred checking out what the day will offer! Count on 45min to 1hr for the approach

 Fred checking out the view. This was a great experience to share with Fred who has roots in Ajaccio. I felt like he really got a lot out of this climb, high above the bay of Ajaccio, where he has spent so much of his life.

Luca climbing through some more exotic terrain . . . 


Fun, easy climbing


Job done!






After a much appreciated Coca Cola at a local cafe in Afa, the sun and sky give us a good show on the way back to Corte as we drove through the beautiful Col de Vizzavona. 

The route is entirely bolted. Sometimes the bolts can be a bit confusing, particularly on one of the belays. This climb was a long time ago but about half way up you arrive at a really nice ledge where you can see one bolt fro a previous belay was taken out. It is a bit confusing but don't fear, just climb a bit higher and the two-bolt belay is there. This pitch is at the end of the slab that makes up the beginning pitches of the route. You must traverse (across some wet rock) to this ledge and then climb 15 feet or so higher to the belay.
Try to climb this route early in the day or in the cooler months, the Ajaccio sun can turn you into a fried shrimp :) This a great route for beginning leaders of multipitch climbs. There is at least one section where you must do a little bit of route finding, a good exercise! This route starts on a slab and then more or less follows a gully until the large ledge where the upper pitches of other routes continue to the summit (maybe link-up with one of them to reach the top, but remember you must make a rappel if you do so). At this huge ledge there is also the sport sector of Gozzi where there are a ton of great routes. After reaching this ledge you descend down the West facing couloir to join the approach trail. This couloir is home to countless routes, from easy to super hard. While descending you really get a sense for the towering walls that Gozzi boasts . . .

Gear: 12-15 quickdraws will suffice. Bring some slings to try to cut down on rope drag and for the belay.
If you are feeling ambitious, take your machete and do some gardening on your way up :)

Looking back: This was a great route to do in respect to the dynamics of our party. Fun, easy climbing allowed for continuous progress until the "grand vire". Once you arrive at the "big ledge" you can hang out, eat and drink and admire the other climbers attempting hard sport climbs . . . all with the bay of Ajaccio and and airliners coming in for the landing as a backdrop. Not bad, not bad at all. 

More information on: http://escalade.corse.topo.free.fr/index.php?menu=gdv&page=Les%20Grandes%20Voies&lg=fr








Location: Afa, France

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